Spain
Spain - as a country and wine producing region - offers immense variety. Governed centrally from Madrid, Castellano (Spanish) overlays numerous autonomous regions with distinct languages, culture, food and of course, wine. From crisp white wines along the Atlantic coast, full-bodied reds in the north, spectacular whites in the south, Mediterranean gems in the east - and everything in between - Spain offers plenty for the wine lover, and, at incredible value compared to our friends in France & Italy.
Politics has played a huge role in the Spanish wine scene in the 20th century, with the Franco government seeking to both homogenise the country and seek foreign currency through the industrialisation of many economic sectors.
This resulted in both the proliferation of French varieties in Spain, and, the simplification of wines produced in the regions.
In recent years, forward-thinking winemakers have sought to reimagine what wine in their corner of this magnificent country can be, looking both to the past, the soil and the grape for inspiration. These are the producers who we prefer to work with and share with you in New Zealand.
DO Somontano
Somontano is a minor wine region in Spain making some of the best little wines from anywhere. They have an interesting history, with vines having been planted as long ago as 500 BC. The subsequent arrival of the Romans led to the introduction of then modern viticulture and production approaches allowing for the commercialisation of wine from the area. In the Middle Ages, the Catholic influence saw a marked increase in vine plantings, but it was really post-phylloxera when the industry developed. Producers from Bordeaux and Argentina moved their production to the area after the devastation of their crops, bringing with them French varieties that are now a significant part of the plantings. Not only did they bring grape, but also wine production and commerce expertise allowing for the export of wines from Somontano. Post-war, Somontano established a co-op to bring together the best producers of the zone, and in 1984 it was recognised as a DO. The final step was the arrival of the Barbadillo organisation from Jerez, who saw the potential in the land, the grapes and their growers. Working together, they are making fantastic wines. While there are the aforementioned French grapes, general Spanish grapes such as Macabeo, undoubtably Moristel is the Prince of Somontano. This variety is indigenous to the zone and gives the wines of Somontano the character, personality and the uniqueness that a Designation of Origin must have.
Map from Do Somontano
DO Rioja
Rioja is arguably the most famous and well-known wine region in Spain, recognised for its Tempranillo-based, age worthy red wines. For many decades, Rioja has been classified into three geographic zones - Alta, Alavesa & Oriental (formally Baja) - and quality has been organised in terms of the use of 225 litre oak barrels and by the time spent ageing in barrel and bottle before release - Joven, Crianza, Reserva & Gran Reserva.
The reality is much more nuanced. This is a region that has always made whites, rosados (rose), claretes (red/white hybrids) & even sparkling wines from around 25 different grape varieties. While process and ageing are a part of the story of Rioja; geography, place, soil and history are more significant. The three official zones are essentially political boundaries that do not account for different soil types. In short, Rioja is just as diverse as any other wine region and the beauty is in the variety of style of wine available. While globally Rioja is known for mature, dusty, tertiary-forward reds, there are amazing wines of all categories; with many winemakers today preferring to emphasise the freshness and fruit in their wines with a line of sight to their terroir, only using oak and ageing to enhance - and not overpower - their wines.
It has only recently been permitted under law to include the name of the town on the wine label in Rioja. There are hundreds of little towns, with various soil types, grapes and historical practices. A key reference point when looking at Rioja is the Ebro river. Typically, the best sites are north of the river, but the devil is in the detail. Alfaro in the east makes fantastic Viura whites and Garnacha (Grenache) reds. One must understand each place on its own merits rather than the reductive approach officially in place.
Map from Cellar Tours
DO Montsant
Montsant is potentially known to most simply for being next to - or more accurately, surrounding - the famous DO Priorat.
Map from Cellar Tours