Bodegas Abeica
Ábalos - east of Haro, north-west of Logroño and, significantly, above the river Ebro - this village in La Rioja is home to an excellent 5th-generation family wine producer, Abeica.
Siblings Isabel, Pachi & Raul work alongside their nephews, cousins Ricardo and David, to make excellent wines of place in the tradition of their town.
The importance of place is so important when it comes to wine. The magic in Burgundy is in the sites identified for their potential to produce wines of quality and distinct character. This is just as relevant in Rioja, despite the modern understanding of Rioja being entirely centered on the use of oak and ageing. There is even a saying in Ábalos:
"El vino bueno el joven,
el de barricas para especular."
This is to say: That the young, fresh and unoaked wine is good and to be enjoyed; and that those aged in barrels for long periods are made with the motivation to be sold at a higher price- but not necessarily made with quality in mind.
It is not to say that oak and age is not part of the story, but it is not the be-all and end-all. Winemakers across Spain are (better said, have) moved away from the over-extraction of tannin, the development of high alcohol and the judicious use of oak- “Robert Parker-ism”. They seek freshness, purity of fruit and a feeling for their terroir in their wines- just as has always been the approach in Ábalos.
Ábalos is a tiny, cold village, with one cafe where the locals mingle, and is surrounded by vineyards of clay & calcium soils (the best soils in Rioja are generally north of the river Ebro, in towns such as Ábalos) at 545 metres altitude and above.
Abeica have several sites: Some are mixed plots of red and white grapes, others single-varietal plantings. Everything is done by the family, done by hand, and done with the utmost care, practicing organic viticulture.
Whichever way you consider Abeica, this is an excellent producer, offering wines of incredible value, quality and personality.
Los vinos…
…the wines
2024 Rosado
Rosado made from Garnacha, with Viura & Tempranillo. A Rosado de lágrima (teardrop rosado) - referring to the very gentle extraction of the grapes, done in the sangrado (bled) method. The result is a very pale skinned, delicate pink wine that is fresh, acid and mineral driven with a complex basket of ripe (but not sugary) fruit: Citrus, alpine strawberries, red cherries, apples and hints of tropical fruits.
A wine that cleanses the palate, makes one salivate and want to eat and drink more. Perfect as an aperitif or with a variety of dishes.
2024 Chulato
Historically, wines in Ábalos were almost exclusively made with carbonic maceration, and Chulato continues in this tradition. This style of wine - also known as vino de cosechero, vino del año, vino corriente - is made to be enjoyed every week of the year with friends & family, after work & with dinner.
Chulato is named after the principal vineyard from where the grapes come from. It’s mainly Tempranillo, with Viura & Garnacha. The organic bush vines are at least 50-years old (!).
Chulato has it all: Bright, juicy, wild summer berries; feelings of autumn; excellent concentration and well-integrated tannin.
2023 Colección de Viñedos
Named “Collection of Vinyards”, this wine is a pure expression of Ábalos - a village wine from three 550m vineyards of clay & calcium soils: Peñacaida (77 years), los Trepados (60) & Centenales (over 100).
80% Tempranillo with Viura & Garnacha- This wine is approachable, round, fresh & medium-bodied; with polished tannins and a persistent finish- Colección is simply an excellent wine.